Muss es sein? - Es muss sein!
[epigraph to the final movement of Beethoven's
last quartet]
A thousand feet high and reaching massively south
from Teno light to the spruce margin of a tourist
haven
ten miles away, a crinkled buttress of basalt
braves
onslaught of seas that unremittingly strike and
seethe.
This is the Acantilado: wandering fingers of
light
fondle its riven face as the sun works round
the day,
defining its ropes of rock, its clefts and courses
and cavelets,
never two hours the same, yet changeless early
and late.
It is worth more than a photograph from the deck
of the boat
that brings its passengers to view the dolphins
or take a dip
in the bay of Masca; merits more than a word
from the
trippers
at lunch by the pool, who ignore the sea's incessant
beat.
This is an image of time and beyond time, a sign
capturing aeons complete in the lens of a round
minute
out of the ceaseless tremor of earth's primeval
skin:
a moment of the eternal in this noonday's particular
scene.
Out in the sound, a fisherman in his blue-gunwaled
skiff
is tending his flimsy nets, making a wayward
killing
on a trading floor where current trends never
hold still;
one error, and the mocking breakers clap and
scoff;
wise, when the storm wind prompts, out of the
pallid west
he'll run for Teno's bleak beach, or southward
a mile
to Santiago, where the indispensable Virgin sits
smiling
in her hut on the harbour wall, shelter from
the ocean's
worst.
And if I envy him it is not in some fey, addled
belief
that a life of endangered toil is the virtuous
life. No.
Nor I will not put his decent human pretensions
lower
than anyone else's to goods and ease and consoling
love;
But still I think the soul of him less able to
come to harm
as long as his hunched and weathered hopes remain
thus oddly
Poised between the stark Atlantic and the simple
mother of
God.
A free man? Free. And sentenced. In prison, at home.
But the gull that floats alone in the lee of the
huge rock,
a fragile pinnace of feathers, is more at home
in her dwelling,
tenanted unconcernedly on the multiforming swell
that gathers and folds like a press, stretches
and tugs like a
rack.
Incertitude's her element; she keeps no account
of what
the tale of moment by moment will bring. Hope
and despair
are foreigners from the dry domain of human feeling.
Her airy
trust in the tides of sky and sea shifts not
a whit.
Doubt blurs my human eye; the agnostic I
composing this instant from the truculent wild
of ocean,
scowl of the cliff, stillness of fisherman and
bird; a gross
consort of accidentals, diminishing to a round
O ö
rondo of now in time in now, a spiralling dance.
These forms converge crazily on my whorled reason.
Do I grasp a meaning that changes with light
and breeze,
or am I, changeable, grasped ö helpless, dunce,
dense?
Dreamer or dreamed-of ö that old conundrum we
set ourselves:
if dreamed-of, must I pitch into nothing when
the Dreamer wakes
from his terrible reverie; or if dreaming, will
a daybreak
restore me to an inconceivable self? This riddle
no one solves
or returns to unravel, though the question must
be mine soon.
I feel the advent of a change, second by quavering
second,
as the fisherman feels the sly nudge of the wind
on his neck.
Time slips; the world melts; muss es sein?
Suddenly the gull soars, snowy-vanned, her broad
span sketching a Christ-cross on the virginal
blue;
image of the soul's flight; nothing of earth
pursuing,
she turns and pauses at heaven's porch like an
entering
bride;
es muss sein! And I proclaim the soul's
existence, proclaim
against my own belief, against the coming dark;
cry
how the spirit soars up again and again, flying
in the face of the chaos, reaching for glory
in the long climb.
Cry against the dark. Where the dragon-tailed
rollers
writhe,
cry. We are not made to eat, drink and fester
in black earth; clogged in the worst, cry for
the best,
then disgrace shows a semblance of honour, an
also-runner's
wreath.
But see ö the anguished second passes, the mountains
stand,
Their doomsday grandeur ingrained in the still
impassive
features.
And green-coiled, spuming serpents roll to the
beach
and welter and hiss and die in the black volcanic
sand.